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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.